Satpati is one of the biggest fishing villages on the western coast of
India. It is about 80 km north of Mumbai, located in the Palghar Taluka of District Thane in
Maharashtra. The main industry in Satpati is fishing, and the majority of the population is part of the Koli community.
Satpati is one of the major producers of fish in Maharashtra. It has a population of 35, 000 approximately. It is home to the renowned Koli community of Maharashtra who have been involved with fishing for as long as we can remember.
The nearest railway station to Satpati is Palghar (Western Railway), from where State Transport (S.T.) buses are available for Satpati at regular intervals. 6/7-seater auto rickshaws that can carry about 10 people easily also run between Satpati and Palghar on a share basis, charging around 7 rupees per person.
The regular autos that you see in Mumbai are also available, but beware of the meter less autos, with whom you have to bargain and come to a definite agreement about what he'll charge at the onset itself or you will end up paying an exorbitant amount.
I caught the shuttle train from Virar at 1:20 pm, where I traveled to from Mahim. It cost me 34 rupees for a return ticket. Make sure you get there well in advance otherwise you'll be standing all the way to Palghar like I did. There are a number of services from Mumbai to Palghar, both mail/express and shuttle. Check your local listings for any additional details.
From Virar it takes about 45 minutes to Palghar if you take the shuttle. And you'll come across many interesting people from all walks of life, and from different states. But yes, don’t expect any sympathize from these seasoned commuters, some of whom travel for 6 hours everyday to work. Some of their frustrations do come to the fore from time to time.
When we finally reached Palghar, the stationed seemed to be much more developed and urban looking than what I had expected. It was not too dissimilar to the some of the other city stations that we come across.
The station had the same hustle and bustle that we city dwellers are used to. May be the 10 seater rickshaws and the ST buses were some of the few exceptions. It seemed there is nothing that you can't buy here. One of the first things that I caught my eye is the beautiful faces of the people that I saw there.
The second thing that I noticed very soon is that everyone seemed to know each other, and there was constant yelling of at each other no matter where they are and what they are riding to and from.
I was eager to get some shade because for some reason the sun was beaming down and I was hungry enough to eat an elephant.
Soon we got a share rickshaw and reached Satpati. Satpati resembled a junction where you could head to a number of places. We landed right beside the famous Ram Mandir, which celebrates the equally famous Ram Navami festival of Satpati.
Ram Mandir the most famous Tample in Satpati and Palghar. It's grand and beautifully crafted and gives you a feeling of spiritual sanctity and artistic splendor at one go. It's very beautiful and every year during Ram Navami, a huge fair is organized where people from different states come to enjoy the celebrations and be part of the revelry of the people. The beaches of Satpati are very beautiful and are a source of income to its people as well in more ways than one.
The village is home to two prominent classes within the Koli community, the Mangela and the Vaity caste. I decided to stay at the friend Shahshank Meher's place who works in Air India. Shashak is a native of Satpati and his family is among the many prominent fishing families of Satpati.
There are approximately 300 ships in the docks or Dhakka as they call it off the shores Satpati, but during the season not more than 150 ships are active. Although the produce is dropping, they are still enough to make some families financially very sound if a little bit of luck goes with them.
Some people consider it a game of luck and it's a story of hit and miss. Huge amounts of money are invested in any given ship, as much as 30-40 lakhs, and if they continuously go into the seas for the entire season, and some good luck helps them through the way, there is a fair chance that they will recoup their money.
Satpati is home to one of the largest corporative fishing efforts in the country which aims to aid, support and organize the fishing business in Satpati which is sustaining so many homes in this region. It has set an example that many would do well to replicate.
Although the situation is way off from being perfect, the people of Satpati are determined to carry on fishing as long as the seas allow them to. But all the while they are looking for other avenues to support their growth. Many have decided to embrace education and use that as a plank to protect against the uncertainties of fishing. Many have started to move away from their traditional fishing areas into the city in the hope for a better future.
Many of the youngsters have sadly started to feel disenchanted with fishing and want to pursue alternative livelihoods and set out for greener pastures. Some fishing families have built up huge amount of liabilities by way of loans which they are trying very hard to pay up.
Law and order have become a problem with financial troubles escalating. The police have become less and less lenient on the offenders as the number of cases keeps escalating.
Hygienic infrastructure by way of public toilets and drainage leaves a lot to be desired. Although the residents have tried again and again to convince the authorities, their pleas go unanswered.
Moving away from the negatives, there are a lot of things that the natives have to be proud about. Their way of life is still protected and the elders are very serious when it comes to preserving it. Sooner than later, Satpati is going to emerge as a major tourist attraction. All it needs is the right amount of vision and a little effort by the government and the people of Satpati.
And we are still some way off from seeing the fruits and blessing of the seas from drying up and there are still many ships to be hauled out of the sea, and a lot of money still to be made.
After my one day stay at this wonderful place where I met a number of wonderful people, it was time to leave. The Meher house was like a family to me and I simply adored the food that Shashanks mother prepared, and it I will always treasure it.
I took the 8:15 am Surat-Mumbai-Surat mail from Palghar and made it to Borivali by 10. The ride was much more comfortable than I believed and no sooner had I reached Mumbai, my heart longed to go back.
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